Paola
Ungaro

Learning Objectives

The course aims to explore the various aspects of textile culture and to provide the most relevant knowledge to understand the ongoing transformation in the textile and fashion sector. The course aims to provide students with a thorough understanding of older-generation textile materials produced using new technologies, as well as the latest-generation new materials, leathers and fibres that are entering the market. By analysing a number of textile brands and companies that are capitalising on the ongoing transformation of the textile and fashion sector to bring about a genuine paradigm shift, the course aims to focus on the transformation of textile products and accessories through technological innovation. The course delves into the study of production processes, materials, finishes, and the mandatory and voluntary certifications associated with textile products.   

By examining the structure of the textile sector and analysing its critical issues, the course aims to highlight the importance of materials, their central role in the creative process, and their use in eco-design. The aim is to define eco-design and demonstrate its central role in the paradigm shift. Through a thorough understanding and knowledge of materials and production technologies, students will be encouraged to make informed choices about materials in relation to form and function, to seek a new educational and design approach in line with the current cultural evolution, to design and manufacture products that are sustainable, to minimise their environmental impact throughout their entire life cycle, and to ensure that their disposal is used to create something new.

Course description 

The teaching methodology used in this course alternates between theoretical classroom lectures and demonstration sessions and/or practical exercises aimed at exploring the subject matter in greater depth through hands-on practice and direct experience. Over the past decade, the textile industry has had to undergo a major restructuring process in order to keep pace with significant cultural changes, culminating in the emergence of a new ethos focused on product sustainability at every stage, from design to disposal. The course provides a comprehensive overview of both traditional and new materials, their specific characteristics, and their production, finishing and enhancement processes, with in-depth exploration of their critical aspects and their journey towards innovation and sustainability. The course includes a detailed exploration of next-generation materials, including bio-based and eco-sustainable materials, as well as ‘smart’ textiles, technical, hi-tech and high-performance fabrics, and the sectors in which they are used (smart textiles and e-textiles). The course also includes workshop activities using swatches of all types of fabrics, with the aim of helping students to recognise and classify fibres and the main types of textiles, as well as developing their tactile experience and their understanding of the abbreviations used to identify fibres on fabric labels. Particular attention will be paid to the study of mandatory and voluntary certifications.  The course analyses the role of the European Union (EU), including the Green Deal and its amendments aimed at regulating the textile and fashion sector.  

The course also aims to provide in-depth information on the textile supply chain and its traceability, on regulations and the need to implement a blockchain, on how to balance creativity, competitiveness and sustainability, and on the undisputed central role of the creative process.

Creation of a final book/project.

Method of assessment

Students’ acquired skills will be assessed in the final examination and through ongoing assessments carried out throughout the course.  Various assessment tools will be used, based on three key benchmarks: the skills acquired in recognising, identifying and classifying textile materials suitable for designing fashion collections; the quality (in terms of presentation and content) of the book produced, which will document all the work carried out by students during the course; and the students’ theoretical knowledge of the entire programme covered.

Methods and criteria for assessing progress:

1. Presentation: A3-format book containing mood boards on all the topics covered and the technical data sheets for the fabrics examined during the course.  Production of a final essay.
2. Oral examination covering the entire programme.

Assessment:

• 35% of the final mark is based on the production of the book, its execution, and the essay.
• 65% based on the oral examination – covering the two textbooks and the supplementary teaching materials – on the acquired ability to recognise the types of textiles studied in class.
• Marking system out of thirty (18/30 + distinction)

Compulsory reading list

• P. Ungaro, Tecnologia, Innovazione e Sostenibilità. Conoscere i materiali tessili (Technology, Innovation and Sustainability. Understanding Textile Materials), Conoscere i materiali tessili, Rome 2019. Vol. 1 and Vol. 2